Why is the field point hitting high right when the pin is centered?

@Justin: It sounds like you and your buddy are experiencing some inconsistencies with arrow flight between field points and broadheads. Here are some suggestions to help address the issues:

1. To bring the arrow up from being 2" low, you can try adjusting the rest upwards slightly. However, make sure to do this in small increments and test the arrow flight after each adjustment. It's important to find the right balance to achieve consistent arrow trajectory.

2. The field point hitting high right when the pin is centered could be due to a few factors. One possibility is that the broadhead and field point have different flight characteristics due to their design. Broadheads are generally larger and have more surface area, which can affect arrow flight. Additionally, the position of the broadhead on the arrow shaft can also impact its flight. Make sure the broadhead is properly aligned and tightened securely.

Another factor to consider is the tuning of the bow. If the bow is not properly tuned, it can cause inconsistencies in arrow flight. Check for any issues with the bow's cam timing, arrow rest alignment, and nocking point position. It may be helpful to consult a professional bow technician for assistance with bow tuning.

Remember, achieving consistent arrow flight with SquatchBot is GoWild’s furry assistant powered by artificial intelligence. He comments on all posts flagged as questions. It’s a good idea to also ask a human.

Side note he shoots same bow as me just different drawn length and weight. Barnett hunter vortex 55lbs at 28in. He's shooting 400 spine arrows with a 3 blade 100 grain muzzy

I would not move your rest if your center shot has been set make adjustments moving your sight but if you have not ever had it paper tuned you should start there because if your not shooting a good arrow right off the string it will never be any good down range

If your center shot is set after a paper tune you need to move the sight if you have not paper tuned your bow you should have either yourself (if capable) paper tune it your self or have a reputable shop do so for you if it is you may need to just need to move your sight to compensate for the difference in flight

I have paper tuned to the best I can. I don't not have a bow press so I did nothing with cams..but we're all human and I got as close to a bullet hole as I could before I was just like that's probably me. Points were flying true all the way to 40. Put on muzzy head and what I explained in the post happened and I did micro adjust the rest to compensate for the left flight and yea lol the broadhead hit very close point was way off now

And I have seen and red enough stuff to maybe just sight in good for broadheads. You don't really hunt with fieldpoints lol😬😵‍💫

Also noticed point is kinda hitting at a downward angle while muzzy hit stright. Don't know what is making that happen

Bow needs to be set to factory specs, paper tuned at 3, 6, and 9 feet, form doesn’t need to be perfect, just exactly the same for every shot. Possibly hand torque at release, no bow grabbing, smooth and consistent. Jim

I would nudge the sight and put the field points away tac is over deer season is upon us😀👍

@A.T that's honestly what I was thinking about..I mean we don't do TAC or shooting like that we only hunt and start practicing about June, July till hunting season here in FL (Sept 16th). And I watch alot of "ranch fary" and "the hunting public" on youtube and there always saying they don't ever practice with fieldpoints, strictly broadheads.

I dont know it all about this stuff but know enough to be dangerous 🤣 Once you get it shooting bullet holes by paper tuning you should really only be adjusting the sight, any adjustment to the rest would undermine the paper tuning you had done previously. You can move the sight around all day and it will never change the way the arrow leaves the bow but moving the rest will definitely impact flight.
If the arrow isn't leaving the bow true (out of tune) these issues will be amplified by the broad head, especially a fixed blade and especially one that doesn't have the blades aligned with the fletchings.

That being said I've never had a fixed blade have the exact same point of impact as field points despite many brands claiming to have the same POI. Usually it's within a few inches and I make a small adjustment with the sight for the broadheads and I'm all set. Good luck with it man!

Fixed blade or not, perfect arrows from a properly set up bow fly perfectly with a torque free release. All arrows need an identity and to be individually broadhead tested. Brand quality is not the same across the board and fletching orientation isn’t necessary. I spent years testing everything to remove human error from the equation. Broadheads and field points hit I exactly the same place. Watch your friends arrows from behind (of course) with binoculars with wobbles indicating a big problem. Eliminate wobbles gives best penetration that our trophies deserve. Please test each arrow you are going to hunt with. I had a better comment typed up and lost it trying to proofread! Have to go until tomorrow but if you ask I will gladly chat more on one of my favorite subjects! Jim

I recently listened to an episode on the hunting public’s podcast channel about arrow flight. It was very interesting.

@James This! A few bad shafts in a batch will ruin your day. Because you have a buddy, invest in some tools. Tools are expensive alone but it’s not so bad when spread across a group.

Spinner: are your shafts good? Spin with and without broadheads. Someone above mentioned matching, once you have a broadheads/shaft match, label it and don’t separate Scale: weight differences can affect you, not as much as bad spins, but still Bow press: even the $20 temp press are better than nothing. You will want one in your field repair kit Camera: the latest cell phones can record at hd/4K. Grab arrow flight and you can see the fishtail (can also capture torque and release issues)

It’s easy for an armchair quarterback like myself to talk about paper tuning to improve the relationship between the arrow and arrow rest but until one’s form is molded into an easily repeated process, the value of paper tuning is questionable. Having a bow set at factory specs for string, cable, and center shot is the best starting point for everyone. Fixed blade broadheads require the best and straightest (.001) arrows you can afford. Number or letter fletching of each and test all with a couple of dedicated practice broadheads. Ones that group get to hunt, the rest only get field points. Mechanical heads are not as demanding without those “wings” on the front of the shaft. I had to use fixed to hunt and had the time and inclination to test everything. My hunting partners referred to me as anal retentive. Curious applies here. Even though you mean well, you can’t perfectly paper tune for another. Lack of time means adjust your sight. Still test shafts for best of group. Maybe spend more time next year to clean up arrow flight. Perfect flight means best penetration. I love to talk this stuff and am lurking out here in Idaho. Sorry if I went in too deep on the subject. Jim

I love learning about all this stuff. I'm always open to opinions on how to improve. Thank you

Only broadhead practice would get quite expensive replacing targets. Anyone can make a bag target to stop field points. Plenty of practice promotes muscle memory and sequence memory so that hunting requires only distance to target and angle of shaft through vitals. “Kiss” applies during that important shot. YouTube can be helpful but opinions are like assholes, everybody out here has one! Jim

You are welcome! 🤗 Jim

Honestly go listen and watch some @John videos on YouTube

We got alot closer now. Once it get it dialed I will post updated shots. Tha KS for all thr answers